31May2008 Cradle of Forestry

George Vanderbilt, grandson of the railroad baron, bought huge tracts of the Pisgah Forest NC in the late 1800’s to build his country home on. The resulting mansion, Biltmore, was lavishly furnished. This was eventually opened to the public to show how the super rich of that era lived. There was also a winery and a luxury hotel on the immaculately manicured gardens. A gourmet star-rated restaurant completed the panoply of facilities. People from miles around came to gawk at the opulently decorated rooms. However some families were deterred by the high admission fees. Rightly or wrongly, we did not indulge, thinking it must be similar to the likes of Hearst Castle.

Fortunately for us, the day was not lost because there was also another ‘magnificent’ nearby. From lands owned by Vanderbilt, a 6500-acre swath within the Pisgah National Forest was set aside by Congress to commemorate the beginning of forestry conservation in the United States. It became known as the Cradle of Forestry of America. The exhibits in the Visitor Center of the Forest Discovery Center recounted how the most famous landscape artist of the day – Frederick Olmstead - recommended that Vanderbilt hire Gifford Pinchot, a forester, to rescue his impoverished overgrazed farmlands and forests where there was too much logging. The latter was the first to think about forest health and related management issues of flora and fauna. Eventually Gifford became so successful that Teddy Roosevelt appointed him Chief of the Division of Forestry (under the Department of Agriculture). Pinchot found Carl Schenck, a German with a degree in forestry from the Black Forest, as his replacement. Fortunately Vanderbilt agreed and legions of rangers were trained since the first School of Forestry in America started in 1898. Many graduates went off to disseminate the knowledge of how forests can best be conserved against man’s increasing encroachment. Since the efforts of the early pioneers, conservation methods had advanced thanks to leaps in technology as demonstrated by the many interactive exhibits.

We learnt that the soil, the water, all plants and animals (including aquatic life) are part of a delicately balance eco-system. A forest is like a sponge that can absorb a lot of water in a short time. Water is then released slowly through the leaves of trees and plants that in turn got it from the soil. Roots bind the soil and protect the land from erosion, flooding, and prevents heavy siltation of waterways. The forest releases clean water to the lakes and streams, with harmful chemicals trapped by the soil and broken down. Water that finds their way underground, through a forest as a conduit, helps maintain the level of lakes and streams and makes having wells possible. Forests have to be managed to ensure that the whole eco-system is healthy whilst supplying the needs of human beings. Young children should be taught this philosophy if the earth's resources are to be preserved for future generations.

We also toured the ‘campus’ of the School of Forestry (officially named Biltmore Forest School after its major benefactor). This was a collection of original structures – mountaineer cabins, farm homes, single room community school and church where the students lived and attended classes. The chestnut logs used were sturdy, rot and weather resistant, and the Southern Appalachian building techniques helped (use of ‘dove tail’ joints). Notes posted at each stop told of Schenck’s efforts at teaching this 'pioneer' discipline. Besides having to adapt to a new country, the German had to write his own textbooks and make teaching aids - equipment and implements – from scratch. Schenck was not familiar with all of the American trees and a nursery was set up to find out which ones would grow the best. Concepts like selective tree cutting, pest and disease monitoring and control were introduced. The students had to spend time both in the classroom and in the forest. They had to become expert horsemen to cover the huge forest which was their classroom as well as their responsibility to patrol. Faded black and white photos showed students were happiest during their ‘outdoor’ lessons – a whole troop riding into the forest and learning in situ at the hands of the maestro, Dr Schenk.
Furthe along the Biltmore Campus Trail, from watching crafters recreate the skills need for survival in the mountains and forests, we can imagine what life was like in the Appalachian mountains of the late 19th and early 20th century.

We finally made it to the end of the Blue Ridge Parkway. To access the Great Smoky Mountains National Park from the south, Cherokee NC is the jumping off point. This was also where a lot of the Cherokee tribe lives.

We checked into the Great Smoky Inn – a Best Western of course. When we inquired about Indian (Native American) food, we were sent to Paul’s diner. One specialty, ‘fried bread’, is as the name implies. But the dish came completely smothered with beans and sauce which made the bread very soggy. The other dish named ‘tacos’ just reminded us of watered down Mexican food. (Sigh), nothing to write home about; oh well, at least we can claim: "Been there, done that!" Perhaps other tribes may have better tasting cuisine.

Replete with monotonous souvenir shops and a few unexciting eating places, Cherokee felt very depressing. However, the efforts of the people to maintain their sanity were uplifting. We drove by a five-piece band playing oldies on a patch of ground next to a defunct gas station. The musicians were not young. In fact most of them were as old as the music they were playing. All the same, we stopped to listen to the music. The locals were dancing and we thought “What the hell, let’s join in!” Soon we were bobbing and swaying to the driving guitars. Everybody rocked into the night. Let the woes worry about themselves!


Distance traveled 111.1 miles


Blue Ridge Parkway on the way to Cradle of Forestry. (Don't forget to view the photos full screen)

This was one of the houses where the early rangers lived as students.

This was the commissary where the rangers purchased the supplies they needed



This poster on the wall looked so nice - anybody constipated?


This was Dr Schenck's office - the walls outside really looked neat. He had to publish his own lectures in English as there were no 'forestry' textbooks and he had to mark his students' homework. Managing the forest was carried on at the same time. It wasn't easy as the settlers who lived in the mountains carried on their activities - logging, hunting, moonshining - without regard for the welfare of the forest. So Dr.Schenck had to mobilise his rangers. He had his 'forest policemen' stay in 'Black Forest Lodges' strategically located in different parts of the forest.

The exterior walls of Dr. Schenck's office - it's really cool

What's best for clothing after washing? Wait to be kissed by the sun.


On the designated wash day, the student rangers had to bring their clothing to this 'wash' place to get them cleaned; fat was boiled with lye from the ash and water, if an egg or potato was able to float in the concoction, then the soap is ready!


What do you think this looks like? It's supposed to be 'frybread' under an avalanche of chili and cheese - an 'Indian' specialty!