Reggie & Amy Wahab

Saturday, August 2, 2008

1June2008 Great Smoky Mountain NP (I)

It may have been depressing last night in Cherokee NC but we are confident that our sojourn in the mountains will cheer us up.

Great Smoky Mountain NP receives almost ten million visitors each year. Truly a haven of superlatives, this 800-square mile patch of the Southern Appalachian Mountains (twice the size of Hong Kong), straddles the border between Tennessee and North Carolina. Besides being well watered (some parts getting over 85 inches per annum), amazing biodiversity is possible because of the elevations of the mountain peaks and the fact that the Park stretches for 36 miles in a NE and SW direction. The myriads of different habitats boast over an estimated 100,000 species of plants and animals – so far, only a small fraction has been categorized. There is reputedly more biodiversity here than all of Europe. Flora and fauna frequently found in southern United States flourish in the lower altitudes while those common in the north find hospitable habitats at higher elevations. The world’s best examples of deciduous forest, old growth trees, are to be found here. Great Smoky Mountain NP had been designated an International Biosphere Reserve. To better protect this invaluable natural resource, a lot more information is needed. There is great urgency to categorize as many species as possible.

The rangers at the Visitor Center recommended that we visit the Mountain Farm Museum to learn how pioneering families survived over two hundred years ago. The open-air site, next to the Oconoluftee River, featured a collection of historic log structures transplanted from different parts of the mountains.
The ‘zig-zag’ split rail fences fascinated me. They called them ‘snakes’. From this photographer’s point of view: “A lot of geometry with plenty of surface interest!” Apparently, these were suited to grounds that were hard or rocky as posts were not needed. They were also easily dismantled. Other more durable commonly seen fences were ‘pickets’. These required a lot less wood but were visually a lot less exciting.
The early farmhouses were cramped - people spent most of their time outdoors. They did not have any of the modern conveniences, but we marveled at the little comforts invented that made life easier.
There was a big barn on the grounds - a multiple purpose storage facility so huge that a modern home would fit comfortably in it. The size of the barn was correlated to a farm’s size and the wealth of the family. Besides providing shelter for livestock as well as space to store feed for the winter, it was also the roof under which woodwork and repairs were carried out. I believe there was a cantilevered barn elsewhere in the Park – one in which the overhang of the roof is much larger allowing more shelter for livestock and equipment.
We poked our heads into a smokehouse, an apple house and examined the tools in the blacksmith’s shop.
Pork was the meat of choice as hogs grew fast and needed very little attention. The smokehouse provided space where meats were exposed to smoke for days. Meat cured by packing in salt, corn or cornmeal, or sifted wood ashes could also be stored in the smokehouse.
Different types of apple trees grew on the grounds - some apples were better for baking, hardier strains would be stored for use through winter and early spring. Apples were also sliced and dried, or sulphured (with sulphur fumes), for use later. According to the self-guiding tour brochure, some apple houses were built into the sides of hills to protect the stored fruits from seasonal temperature extremes.
The farmer often doubled up as blacksmith to recycle iron and to repair farming implements.
The springhouse was their ‘fridge’ - an enclosure built in the path of a diverted icy stream.
Soap was made from ash and animal fat by means of an ingenious wooden contraption.
Corn was stored and dried in animal-proof airy corncribs. It was the most important crop as every part of this plant was used.
Music must have been important in making life easier as museum volunteers sang and played replicas of musical instruments used then.
The planners and the volunteers of this Park really did a good job in giving us a good handle on South Appalachian Mountain culture.

The hike we did was pleasant – a 1.5 mile trail along the Oconoluftee River. There was a cool breeze and the boughs overhanging the banks swayed gently. Every now and then, we stopped to gaze at the clear waters, looked across to the opposite bank and wondered if a Cherokee would appear.

It was almost closing time when we got to the Museum of the Cherokee Indian and regrettably had to go through it in a rush. There was an impressive collection of artifacts. The exhibits traced the history of the Cherokees back 11,000 years. Farming eventually gained in importance over hunting. Corn, beans and squash were alternately planted staples. The land furnished all their needs and the practice of herbal medicine was widespread.
Traditions were handed down orally as there was no written language until much later. In 1821, Sequoyah created the Cherokee alphabet – the ‘syllabary’. The resulting written language enabled a constitutional basis for government. It also facilitated the work of Christian missionaries because it allowed the Bible to be translated. Was this literacy developed too late to contribute to the Cherokees’ fight against overwhelming odds? No matter what, Sequoyah’s story was really interesting.
Apparently, the Cherokees governed themselves democratically, with each village having their own chiefs. At their zenith, the Cherokees were spread out over eight modern-day Southern States along the South Appalachians.

About two centuries after the Europeans appeared on the scene, Cherokees were no longer able to defend themselves against superior numbers and technology. Manifest Destiny was the belief that God had ordained that the white man should settle in the land of the American Indian and that it was God's will manifested by the events of the day. The grab for their lands culminated in the abominably painful ‘Trail of Tears’ in 1838. The forced removal to Oklahoma resulted in thousands of deaths and casualties. Today, a small number of Cherokees are concentrated in Western North Carolina. The descendants of those that evaded eviction, or returnees from Oklahoma, work hard to preserve and honour their past traditions and to cope with the demands of everyday life.

Fast forward to the present: Too tired to go out for dinner, we ended up with finger-lickin’-KFC back in the room. The meal was rounded off with instant noodles and ahhh, ‘dessert’ was fortifying shots of whiskey.


Distance traveled 6 miles


It was easy to get used to all this greenery - the concrete canyons we grew up with got fainter by the minute; look carefully and the cars on the main road in front of the bank of trees can be seen. Remember, view the photos on full screen

Firewood,in the shed at the back, was the essential fuel


Lots of insects around - here's one way to keep'em out


Again, firewood, and the hopper for getting 'lye' from ash


Chickens were a regular part of the diet on a farm


The corncrib, sometimes farm implements were stored here as well



The trail we took ran along the Oconoluftee River


Pebbles by the river


When waters met...


The Cherokees loved peanuts steamed in salt - yummy


The bounty from the vegetable patch, if protected against the cold, will last the family through the winter and early spring; pickling,drying and later canning, provided more variety


The apple house was relocated here; at its original site elsewhere, it was built against a mountainside; earth and thickwalls insulated the fruit from temperature fluctuations; apples that ripened later and could last the winter were placed on the ground floor and less hardier strains were stored in the floor above


Harnesses for farm animals


The Cherokee called themselves Ani-kituhwa-gi. Their history goes back more than ten thousand years. Their medicine men were experts in using plants to cure all kinds of ailments. One of them was depicted in the Museum of the Cherokee Indian.


On this curved panel in the museum, visualisation of the Cherokees at their zenith.


Again from the museum - Cherokee chiefs in contact with the 'outside world'


A bust of Sequoyah, outside the museum. In 1821, he invented the written Cherokee language, the "syllabary". This enabled the Cherokee people to be literate in a short time.


The entrance to the Museum of the Cherokee Indian


The Bears Project was created in 2005 to exhibit the talent of selected Cherokee artists. This was named Trail of Tears & 7 Clans, the artwork on this blue bear attempts to convey the pain of this tragic story.
Don't forget to view on full screen - especially those of the bears


This green bear is aptly named Harmony of Life


The artist named his creation Cherokee Sunset


This was a fierce looking one - the Eagle Dance Bear

1 Comments:

Post a Comment

Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]



<< Home