31May2008 Cradle of Forestry

George Vanderbilt, grandson of the railroad baron, bought huge tracts of the Pisgah Forest NC in the late 1800’s to build his country home on. The resulting mansion, Biltmore, was lavishly furnished. This was eventually opened to the public to show how the super rich of that era lived. There was also a winery and a luxury hotel on the immaculately manicured gardens. A gourmet star-rated restaurant completed the panoply of facilities. People from miles around came to gawk at the opulently decorated rooms. However some families were deterred by the high admission fees. Rightly or wrongly, we did not indulge, thinking it must be similar to the likes of Hearst Castle.

Fortunately for us, the day was not lost because there was also another ‘magnificent’ nearby. From lands owned by Vanderbilt, a 6500-acre swath within the Pisgah National Forest was set aside by Congress to commemorate the beginning of forestry conservation in the United States. It became known as the Cradle of Forestry of America. The exhibits in the Visitor Center of the Forest Discovery Center recounted how the most famous landscape artist of the day – Frederick Olmstead - recommended that Vanderbilt hire Gifford Pinchot, a forester, to rescue his impoverished overgrazed farmlands and forests where there was too much logging. The latter was the first to think about forest health and related management issues of flora and fauna. Eventually Gifford became so successful that Teddy Roosevelt appointed him Chief of the Division of Forestry (under the Department of Agriculture). Pinchot found Carl Schenck, a German with a degree in forestry from the Black Forest, as his replacement. Fortunately Vanderbilt agreed and legions of rangers were trained since the first School of Forestry in America started in 1898. Many graduates went off to disseminate the knowledge of how forests can best be conserved against man’s increasing encroachment. Since the efforts of the early pioneers, conservation methods had advanced thanks to leaps in technology as demonstrated by the many interactive exhibits.

We learnt that the soil, the water, all plants and animals (including aquatic life) are part of a delicately balance eco-system. A forest is like a sponge that can absorb a lot of water in a short time. Water is then released slowly through the leaves of trees and plants that in turn got it from the soil. Roots bind the soil and protect the land from erosion, flooding, and prevents heavy siltation of waterways. The forest releases clean water to the lakes and streams, with harmful chemicals trapped by the soil and broken down. Water that finds their way underground, through a forest as a conduit, helps maintain the level of lakes and streams and makes having wells possible. Forests have to be managed to ensure that the whole eco-system is healthy whilst supplying the needs of human beings. Young children should be taught this philosophy if the earth's resources are to be preserved for future generations.

We also toured the ‘campus’ of the School of Forestry (officially named Biltmore Forest School after its major benefactor). This was a collection of original structures – mountaineer cabins, farm homes, single room community school and church where the students lived and attended classes. The chestnut logs used were sturdy, rot and weather resistant, and the Southern Appalachian building techniques helped (use of ‘dove tail’ joints). Notes posted at each stop told of Schenck’s efforts at teaching this 'pioneer' discipline. Besides having to adapt to a new country, the German had to write his own textbooks and make teaching aids - equipment and implements – from scratch. Schenck was not familiar with all of the American trees and a nursery was set up to find out which ones would grow the best. Concepts like selective tree cutting, pest and disease monitoring and control were introduced. The students had to spend time both in the classroom and in the forest. They had to become expert horsemen to cover the huge forest which was their classroom as well as their responsibility to patrol. Faded black and white photos showed students were happiest during their ‘outdoor’ lessons – a whole troop riding into the forest and learning in situ at the hands of the maestro, Dr Schenk.
Furthe along the Biltmore Campus Trail, from watching crafters recreate the skills need for survival in the mountains and forests, we can imagine what life was like in the Appalachian mountains of the late 19th and early 20th century.

We finally made it to the end of the Blue Ridge Parkway. To access the Great Smoky Mountains National Park from the south, Cherokee NC is the jumping off point. This was also where a lot of the Cherokee tribe lives.

We checked into the Great Smoky Inn – a Best Western of course. When we inquired about Indian (Native American) food, we were sent to Paul’s diner. One specialty, ‘fried bread’, is as the name implies. But the dish came completely smothered with beans and sauce which made the bread very soggy. The other dish named ‘tacos’ just reminded us of watered down Mexican food. (Sigh), nothing to write home about; oh well, at least we can claim: "Been there, done that!" Perhaps other tribes may have better tasting cuisine.

Replete with monotonous souvenir shops and a few unexciting eating places, Cherokee felt very depressing. However, the efforts of the people to maintain their sanity were uplifting. We drove by a five-piece band playing oldies on a patch of ground next to a defunct gas station. The musicians were not young. In fact most of them were as old as the music they were playing. All the same, we stopped to listen to the music. The locals were dancing and we thought “What the hell, let’s join in!” Soon we were bobbing and swaying to the driving guitars. Everybody rocked into the night. Let the woes worry about themselves!


Distance traveled 111.1 miles


Blue Ridge Parkway on the way to Cradle of Forestry. (Don't forget to view the photos full screen)

This was one of the houses where the early rangers lived as students.

This was the commissary where the rangers purchased the supplies they needed



This poster on the wall looked so nice - anybody constipated?


This was Dr Schenck's office - the walls outside really looked neat. He had to publish his own lectures in English as there were no 'forestry' textbooks and he had to mark his students' homework. Managing the forest was carried on at the same time. It wasn't easy as the settlers who lived in the mountains carried on their activities - logging, hunting, moonshining - without regard for the welfare of the forest. So Dr.Schenck had to mobilise his rangers. He had his 'forest policemen' stay in 'Black Forest Lodges' strategically located in different parts of the forest.

The exterior walls of Dr. Schenck's office - it's really cool

What's best for clothing after washing? Wait to be kissed by the sun.


On the designated wash day, the student rangers had to bring their clothing to this 'wash' place to get them cleaned; fat was boiled with lye from the ash and water, if an egg or potato was able to float in the concoction, then the soap is ready!


What do you think this looks like? It's supposed to be 'frybread' under an avalanche of chili and cheese - an 'Indian' specialty!

30May2008 Chimney Rock NC

Our journey continued on the Blue Ridge Parkway till we branched off to see the famous Chimney Rock at the eponymous village in NC. The huge 315-foot monolith, at the extreme edge of the Blue Ridge Mountains, domineered the Hickory Nut Gorge and the surrounding countryside. We got to the top of the Rock by elevator, saving our time for hiking the many trails. From our lofty 2280-foot elevation, one can see forever (actually over 75 miles on a clear day we were told). Ah, so soothing to be able to trace the path of the river, cosseted by lush foliage from such a distance. The views were simply stunning. It was also exhilarating to see the Stars and Stripes fluttering above the Rock. Naturally photo sessions were mandatory to consolidate our bragging rights.

There were trails galore around the mountain. We chose the Skyline-Cliff Trail Loop which took us to the top of the Hickory Nut Falls. At the start of the trail, somewhere above the Chimney Rock, a boulder perched precariously on a ledge in the cliff. It looked like a ferocious human head. The 'features' were caused by differential weathering. Geologists surmised that a huge sheet of rock slid down the mountainside and broke into many pieces, one of these - the Devil's Head - came to rest on a ledge. It hopefully will still be there surveying the gorge below with a malevolent stare, when you visit in the not too distant future! There were many other examples of sheets of rock ready to break off along the trail (see photo) - we only pray that no one would be around when that happens. From the top of Hickory Nut Falls, it was thrilling to see the spectacular vertical 404-foot drop, one of the highest east of the Mississippi River. Scenic spots like the aptly named Peregrine's Rest and Inspiration Point made the hike most invigorating.

That night, happy but bone weary, we checked into a BW at Ashville. Can't resist not talking about food for long - the crab legs mammy had at the Cornerstone, recommended by friendly locals, were excellent.

Distance traveled 141.9 miles



The Devil's Head

Breathless

Awe-inspiring monolith. To enhance your enjoyment, please view all photos on a full screen

Sheer cliffs, lazy river

On a clear day, one can see forever, almost!


These cliffs are prone to flake over time; overhead one can see the 'raw' edges left by a section that has fallen off, a repeat of the same process that initiated the forming of the Devil's Head


A view of Chimney Rock on the way down

Erosion is busy at work on the cliffs - many rocky areas are dripping wet year round


The 404ft drop of the Hickory Nut Falls. The volume of water coming down can multiply suddenly when there's a heavy downpour. Rain shelters are dotted along the trails


The more Gravity wants the cliff, the more the flora steadfastly hangs on


Going down - almost there


Stay on the trail behind the fence, lucky it's not raining.


Mountain Laurel naturally, blooms April/May


Nothing like crab legs after a hard day's hike

29May2008 Grandfather Mountain NC

From Boone, we set off for the highest peak in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Those with good imagination will make out the profile of a man with a long beard like a grandfather, from the craggy outcrops at the summit. But one had to be miles away to make this out. Anyway, the mountain was thus named.

We finally got there after seemingly endless detours due to road works. As if to compensate for our frustrations, the clouds lifted when we walked gingerly across the Mile High Swinging Bridge to Grandfather Mountain's Linville Peak. From our vantage point a tad below 6000ft, the 360 deg panorama was breath taking. Excellent visibility allowed us to make out small farming communities, villages, tranquil lakes and rivers that meandered lazily into infinity. The greenery extended into the horizon. Everything below co-existed peacefully.

Besides the stunning views, it is worth noting that Grandfather Mountain was designated as an International Biosphere Reserve by the UN. This was in recognition of the ongoing efforts to promote a harmonious relationship between man and his environment. The aim is for man to prosper not at the expense of the environment. The whole area is wellknown for the large number of distinct ecological communities. Scientific studies on the preservation of many rare plants and endangered animals are in progress. Environmental education programs are being run for children. Many animals can be viewed, from least invasive vantage points, within large enclosures built around where they actually live.

Although miles of hiking trails waited to reward visitors, we just sat silently on the summit, completely spellbound, till fog started creeping up the slopes and told us it was time to leave.

Distance traveled 77.3 miles

Couldn't resist throwing in shot of small farm buildings along the way - how real people lived

Flat Top Manor, where Moses H. Cone the textile baron once lived, now converted to a Parkway Craft Center; the Cone Estate - several thousand acres of forest, and highland meadows donated in 1950 to the National Park Service for public enjoyment


View of the Watauga River (leading to the Watauga Lake) from the Flat Top Manor in Moses H. Cone Memorial Park NC, along the Blue Ridge Parkway


Really impressive looking billboard just before we arrived Grandfather Mountain

Equally impressive rocks with trees taking refuge downwind at the top on the way to Linville Peak


Even the views from the parking lot should be spectacular.


Approaching the Mile High Swinging Bridge to get across to Grandfather Mountain's Linville Peak, the shape of the trees from incessant battering by the winds.


Does this look like the edge? It is.


Oh, that wonderful lightness of being (not intentionally referring to a certain novel); feeling the wind through one's hair!


Wouldn't it be nice to live there?


Yes we were there like those folks on the peak, it doesn't take much to be airborne.


Although Grandfather Mountain was 'born' seven hundred million years ago through movement of the earth's plates, survey by geologists decades back found that some of the rock formations were more than a billion years old.


Imagine sliding down the rocky slope


Conditions on the mountain can change very quickly, see the white stuff rolling in?


Enlarge this Park sign about the bears, you may learn something.


Taken at the bear habitat near the Nature Museum lower down the mountain, the black one was rolling around but the brown one was out to the world; the enclosure had ample space for the animals to roam.