Reggie & Amy Wahab

Thursday, October 2, 2008

28Jun2008 Carlsbad Caverns National Park, New Mexico

After yesterday’s visit, which ended up with our witnessing the fantastic ‘bat flight’, we finally went underground to understand why Carlsbad Caverns National Park has been designated an UN Heritage Site.


Underground chambers are usually formed by the action of carbonic acid (interaction of water with carbon dioxide from decaying plant material) on limestone. Carlsbad Caverns owned its existence to vast deposits of oil and natural gas. Hydrogen sulphide, typically associated with such fossil fuels, mixed with oxygen and water to become sulphuric acid. This is many times more corrosive than carbonic acid. About twelve million years ago, when tectonic forces brought hydrogen sulphide-rich water in contact with limestone, hugh chambers resulted. The evidence of such action was the presence of copious quantities gypsum (calcium sulphate). Much later, say half a million years ago, the formation of speleothems (cave formations like stalagtites and stalagmites) began. Bearing in mind that the area above ground at that time was a tropical rain forest instead of a desert, a lot of water trickled down through the limestone. The variety and beauty of the natural embellishments in Carlsbad Caverns can in part be attributed to the combination of the different minerals and physical forces at work. Whilst Mammoth Cave is the longest cave system in the world, Carlbad Caverns can claim to be amongst the most ornate.

The King's Palace guided tour is a 1.5-hour trek which took us to the deepest portion of the cavern with paved trails, 830 feet (251m) under the desert. Many speleothems were pointed out to us and how they came to be was patiently explained. Since being in an underground cavern was no longer a novelty, we were well prepared for the 'blackout experience' which the Rangers had in store. But trying to keep up with our guide and taking a few pictures at the same time was a chore.

One had to descend in elevators to The Big Room for the start of the self-guided tour. The walk around the perimeter of the biggest room of Carlsbad Caverns (8.2 acres, 33184 sqm with an up to 250-ft, 75-m high ceiling ) took two hours. Maps which noted many features like the Bottomless Pit, the Giant Dome, Rock of Ages and the Painted Grotto were provided. We enjoyed proceeding at our own pace, stopping where we wished, although many Rangers stationed enroute were ready to assist.

To really experience going underground, one had to do the Natural Entrance Route which traced the old explorers' footsteps, through a huge descendig corridor, aptly named the Main Corridor, to a central holding area 750ft (227m) down. There one would find eating areas, restrooms, and elevators up to ground level. This was also where many tours started out. The Natural Entrance Route continued on past points of interest like the Bat Cave, Devil's Spring, Green Lake Overlook and the Boneyard. One can't help but look in awe and dread at the Iceberg Rock, a 200,000-ton (203266 metric tons) boulder that fell from the cave ceiling millenias ago. If heavy rain was imminent, visitors would not be allowed to enter the caverns by way of the ‘Natural Entrance’as it was possible to be washed down in a flash flood.

I might point out that imagination is a prerequisite for going underground - especially when going past points of interest. Those good at conjuring up objects from clouds should find the tours most enjoyable.
Those who love using their cameras better be prepared to be disappointed. To get photos of the same quality seen in the NPS publications is almost impossible - nobody will light up a gigantic cavern just to give you that one good shot! So there ain't any good photos to show and I found it hard to convey a sense of proportion and scale.

In line with the blog on our visit to Mammoth Cave on 5thJune, the protection and preservation of a National Treasure is also the mission of the Rangers in the Chihuahuan Desert and the Carlsbad Caverns. With millions of delicate speleothems to guard against the throngs of visitors, it is a tough job. It would be so easy to destroy what nature has spent eons to build. Thankfully, most Rangers tackle their task with genuine enthusiasm which reflected their love of nature.

(Do go to our blog on Mammoth Cave as comments made also apply to Carlsbad Caverns)

Distance traveled 54.1 miles.






Starting down the slope of the Natural Entrance, my favorite photographer on the right.


Now she's on the left starting down the next tier.


It was a long way down; see how tiny the people are near the entrance? Hope this will give the reader a sense of scale.


A shot of the upper facade of the Natural Entrance.


This was half way down, looking up and backwards towards the entrance at ground level.


Just one section of a column. A column is formed by the meeting of a stalagtite and stalagmite


This column was at least 60 ft 18m high.


Close up to the show the milky white calcium compound solution still wet and creamy looking. The cave is alive and changes are taking place incessantly, the rate of change is in part due to the drip rate of the water entering (or leaving) the innumerable chambers of the cave.


This looked like a flow of molten stuff that had been frozen in time, but the forward action is still continuing, albeit at a slow pace.


A close up of the wet surface caused by water laden with calcite flowing down.


This was described as the kiss (or the Sword of Damocles to some); one day, who knows how long into the future, the slender and graceful stalagtite will be joined to its sturdy counterpart - the stalagmite - waiting below.


Thousands of stalagtites await union with stalagmites.


Is that a part of a woman's body? Wonders of nature will never cease, nor will man's imagination. The guard rails along our path, on the left, will I hope convey an idea of the size of this natural wonder.


These developed on a section of a sloping cave wall.


This imposing structure must have been over 70 ft 21m in height. There was no stalagtite on the ceiling for it to form a column with.


The tattered white veil-like structures in the upper left were termed draperies, which resulted from calcite-laden water flowing down an incline.


View of draperies from a different angle.


On the way back after visiting Carlsbad Caverns.


This huge boulder was delicately balanced for now. However, erosion proceeds inexorably and one day...


Typical semi-arid desert plants in their habitat.


This one plant had to attract all the attention, inspite of competition from the prickly cacti and others. The Sotol (pronouced So - toll) boasts a stalk that can grow several inches a day when water is sufficient. The roasted heart of this plant and the greenish-white flowers were eaten by the native Americans. The high suger content sap could be fermented into an alcoholic drink, the roots boiled into a soap, and the leaves used for weaving.


Shallow caves where remains of the Indians were found. The original human inhabitants of these seemingly inhospital lands adapted very well here.


It was dark where we were, but the plains were still bright, a rainbow peeped out from behind a ridge - a symphony of the setting sun and the evening showers.


When we finally emerged from our mountain road on to the plains, we were welcomed with a double glory - they stayed with us for the many miles we had to drive.

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