5June2008 The Mammoth Cave National Park Ky
There were many guided cave tours, each tailored to visitors with different capabilities. Some tours highlighted the sheer size of the underground caverns. Others additionally emphasized the history and culture of those involved with exploring and exploiting the caves during certain periods in the past. Still others exhibited the most decorative and photographed areas of Mammoth Cave. Specialised tours for enthusiastic spelunkers tracing the stages of cave formation and the geology of the area were also available.
We decided on the New Entrance Tour and the History Tour. The first one entered through an opening made in the 1920’s and took us through to Frozen Niagara and the more ‘ornate’ sections of the cave. The second one followed the route of the earliest explorers.
Mammoth cave has an eeriness of its own. I experienced a certain serene feeling interspersed with a less frequent let-me-out-of-here muffled scream. There was very little damp or dank smell - thanks to the air currents that circulated through the vast interlaced system of passageways and openings. When we approached the cave opening it was like being hit by a wall of cool air - like the sensation of being in front of a gigantic fridge. The temperature outside was in 90’s(+32C) and, with minor fluctuations, it was a constant 54degF (12degC) inside. In summer, hot air rose and allowed the cold air inside the cave to come out. The partial vacuum drew fresh air in through the cracks and inlets along the entire cave system. In winter, the cold air outside enters the major cave openings and the air in the cave rises through crevices of the entire cave system, sometimes visible as steam.
Most tours were no more than a couple of miles but it felt a lot longer because we had to tread very carefully. Everyone was told not to touch anything at all. So we tried not to balance ourselves by pressing our palms against walls, using only the handrails. We had to resist the urge to stroke stalagmites, or to trace the contours of wonderfully smooth flowstones. The natural oils on our hands would pollute. We didn’t know that even the sloughing from our skins which small cave denizens fed on would upset the ecosystem. I was amazed that volunteers were recruited to vacuum the fine polyester fibres that pilled from the fleece jackets worn by visitors! The rangers pointed out that the greenish stains on the walls were algae, which thrived around the sparse wall lightings. If the whole place was well lit, the interior of the caves would be green in no time. All the 'don'ts' requested of visitors and the very low light levels were to keep the effect of humans’ presence to a minimum. Man has severely impacted on the ecosystem in the past. That there were so few bats around was a good example. We know millions upon millions hibernated in the Mammoth Cave from logs of the early explorers. Insects were their main source of food. So bats were actually protecting farmers' crops when they flew out to feed at night. The huge amount of guano (bat excrement) produced in the cave was an important food source for cave life. However this was nitrate rich and could be converted to gun powder. Extensive mining took place in early 1800's during the war with the British. Bat numbers were almost decimated. Efforts are now underway to restore the delicately balanced habitat which bats need to survive. Temperature needed to be kept to a very narrow range for hibernation and bearing young. It is also essential to keep noise levels under control as bats used echo sounding to navigate.
Photography was allowed but tripods were not! Quite understandable – I had visions of tripping over tripods and vaulting over the rails into the Bottomless Pit. (Apparently a thick layer of mud made landings inaudible.) Given the low lighting everywhere, the possibility of getting a decent photo showing the vastness of the caverns was slim. I am sure most visitors had to delete a lot of shots inspite of the sophistication of modern cameras. The only recording equipment left was what God gave us – that fantastically versatile camera we call our eyes.
We could afford to be jocular in a group, parented by a knowledgeable Park Ranger, but what was it really like to be engulfed by the pitch black darkness? To allow us to experience this, we were forewarned before the tour started. When we reached what looked like an auditorium with long slabs of stones for seats, midway through the tour, we were all told to sit down. Then as if prepare us again, they announced that the lights would go out shortly but only after we were all comfortably settled. No amount of anticipation could prepare us for the totality of complete darkness! I felt there was no way to stand up and confidently maintain one’s balance - let alone take a step in any direction. Perhaps it was just me! I had previously imagined it would be like groping around in a darkened room trying to find the light switch with my arms outstretched but this was not remotely anything like it. After a short but freightening period of feeling totally lost, my nose told me that the person on my right smelt differently from the one on my left. Admittedly, there was only a vaguely discernible difference - one that would not have registered had there been enough light to see by. But in the dark, the faint smell of hair gel would be called ‘left’ and slight scent of what I would classify as young skin would be my ‘right’. Of course, if the persons on either side moved, I would be completely disorientated again. It also struck me that I was involuntarily bowing my head and cocking my ears to pick up sounds. Why was I doing that? Between what the rangers explained and the literature available from the National Park Service, I gathered we were no different from other organisms when trying to adapt to living in the dark. The two species of fish that lived in the underground streams at the lowest levels were eyeless and depended on sensing vibrations with stitch-like structures on their skin. The cave crickets had extraordinarily long antennae to pick up scent or vibrations although they do have eyes which were poorly developed. It was fascinating to learn that the 130 species of organisms that lived underground in an ‘energy-scarce’ (because there was no light to synthesize food) environment had slower metabolisms, ate less, but lived relatively longer lives.
In our ‘been there, done that’ mode – we went because it was a UN World Heritage Site. The Mammoth Cave is often referred to as the longest cave system in the world (367 miles or 587 kilometers - surveyed so far) as if it were a stand alone entity. There was seldom any reference to the 83 acres of beautiful parkland on top that supported a diversity of wildlife. So we didn’t factor in visiting the parklands above the caves, erroneously thinking that we have visited the forests of several National Parks already. In actual fact, without careful conservation of the greenery above ground, what’s underground can be destroyed or poisoned very quickly. Fortunately, by the time we left, thanks to the knowledgeable ranger guides and the prolific publications of National Park Service, we gained an appreciation of the work being done and the constant vigilance needed to protect the world’s dwindling natural habitats, which are homes to countless species of plants and animals.
Distance traveled 28.9 miles
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A World Heritage Site and International Biosphere Reserve
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This was the entrance made in the 1920's to facilitate descending into deeper areas quickly. Steep steps on a steel frame called for complete concentration during descent
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Our ranger guide imparting her knowledge
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In some areas the sides of the caves narrowed but layers formed by sedimentation eons ago could still be seen
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Whilst conditions were thought to be very stable inside, we did see the aftermath of what happened if some pieces decide to fall
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Whatever looked spectacular to the eye, didn't look impressive through the camera
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Close up, light did make a difference but I could not convey an idea of scale
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The colour of light did matter
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When 'curtains' or 'draperies' broke off, little stalagtites would try to carry on the job of linking with the floor of the cave
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A couple of reasonably lit stalagmites but still imparting no sense of scale
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This blurry shot has been included just to give an idea of the size of the place and this is not the biggest cavern
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People first used the 'Natural Entrance' to gain access to the cave
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This cute thing was seen hiding next to a fence near the Natural Entrance
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These two were doing their bit to continue their kind
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He was inviting a shot before we called it a day
We decided on the New Entrance Tour and the History Tour. The first one entered through an opening made in the 1920’s and took us through to Frozen Niagara and the more ‘ornate’ sections of the cave. The second one followed the route of the earliest explorers.
Mammoth cave has an eeriness of its own. I experienced a certain serene feeling interspersed with a less frequent let-me-out-of-here muffled scream. There was very little damp or dank smell - thanks to the air currents that circulated through the vast interlaced system of passageways and openings. When we approached the cave opening it was like being hit by a wall of cool air - like the sensation of being in front of a gigantic fridge. The temperature outside was in 90’s(+32C) and, with minor fluctuations, it was a constant 54degF (12degC) inside. In summer, hot air rose and allowed the cold air inside the cave to come out. The partial vacuum drew fresh air in through the cracks and inlets along the entire cave system. In winter, the cold air outside enters the major cave openings and the air in the cave rises through crevices of the entire cave system, sometimes visible as steam.
Most tours were no more than a couple of miles but it felt a lot longer because we had to tread very carefully. Everyone was told not to touch anything at all. So we tried not to balance ourselves by pressing our palms against walls, using only the handrails. We had to resist the urge to stroke stalagmites, or to trace the contours of wonderfully smooth flowstones. The natural oils on our hands would pollute. We didn’t know that even the sloughing from our skins which small cave denizens fed on would upset the ecosystem. I was amazed that volunteers were recruited to vacuum the fine polyester fibres that pilled from the fleece jackets worn by visitors! The rangers pointed out that the greenish stains on the walls were algae, which thrived around the sparse wall lightings. If the whole place was well lit, the interior of the caves would be green in no time. All the 'don'ts' requested of visitors and the very low light levels were to keep the effect of humans’ presence to a minimum. Man has severely impacted on the ecosystem in the past. That there were so few bats around was a good example. We know millions upon millions hibernated in the Mammoth Cave from logs of the early explorers. Insects were their main source of food. So bats were actually protecting farmers' crops when they flew out to feed at night. The huge amount of guano (bat excrement) produced in the cave was an important food source for cave life. However this was nitrate rich and could be converted to gun powder. Extensive mining took place in early 1800's during the war with the British. Bat numbers were almost decimated. Efforts are now underway to restore the delicately balanced habitat which bats need to survive. Temperature needed to be kept to a very narrow range for hibernation and bearing young. It is also essential to keep noise levels under control as bats used echo sounding to navigate.
Photography was allowed but tripods were not! Quite understandable – I had visions of tripping over tripods and vaulting over the rails into the Bottomless Pit. (Apparently a thick layer of mud made landings inaudible.) Given the low lighting everywhere, the possibility of getting a decent photo showing the vastness of the caverns was slim. I am sure most visitors had to delete a lot of shots inspite of the sophistication of modern cameras. The only recording equipment left was what God gave us – that fantastically versatile camera we call our eyes.
We could afford to be jocular in a group, parented by a knowledgeable Park Ranger, but what was it really like to be engulfed by the pitch black darkness? To allow us to experience this, we were forewarned before the tour started. When we reached what looked like an auditorium with long slabs of stones for seats, midway through the tour, we were all told to sit down. Then as if prepare us again, they announced that the lights would go out shortly but only after we were all comfortably settled. No amount of anticipation could prepare us for the totality of complete darkness! I felt there was no way to stand up and confidently maintain one’s balance - let alone take a step in any direction. Perhaps it was just me! I had previously imagined it would be like groping around in a darkened room trying to find the light switch with my arms outstretched but this was not remotely anything like it. After a short but freightening period of feeling totally lost, my nose told me that the person on my right smelt differently from the one on my left. Admittedly, there was only a vaguely discernible difference - one that would not have registered had there been enough light to see by. But in the dark, the faint smell of hair gel would be called ‘left’ and slight scent of what I would classify as young skin would be my ‘right’. Of course, if the persons on either side moved, I would be completely disorientated again. It also struck me that I was involuntarily bowing my head and cocking my ears to pick up sounds. Why was I doing that? Between what the rangers explained and the literature available from the National Park Service, I gathered we were no different from other organisms when trying to adapt to living in the dark. The two species of fish that lived in the underground streams at the lowest levels were eyeless and depended on sensing vibrations with stitch-like structures on their skin. The cave crickets had extraordinarily long antennae to pick up scent or vibrations although they do have eyes which were poorly developed. It was fascinating to learn that the 130 species of organisms that lived underground in an ‘energy-scarce’ (because there was no light to synthesize food) environment had slower metabolisms, ate less, but lived relatively longer lives.
In our ‘been there, done that’ mode – we went because it was a UN World Heritage Site. The Mammoth Cave is often referred to as the longest cave system in the world (367 miles or 587 kilometers - surveyed so far) as if it were a stand alone entity. There was seldom any reference to the 83 acres of beautiful parkland on top that supported a diversity of wildlife. So we didn’t factor in visiting the parklands above the caves, erroneously thinking that we have visited the forests of several National Parks already. In actual fact, without careful conservation of the greenery above ground, what’s underground can be destroyed or poisoned very quickly. Fortunately, by the time we left, thanks to the knowledgeable ranger guides and the prolific publications of National Park Service, we gained an appreciation of the work being done and the constant vigilance needed to protect the world’s dwindling natural habitats, which are homes to countless species of plants and animals.
Distance traveled 28.9 miles
A World Heritage Site and International Biosphere Reserve
This was the entrance made in the 1920's to facilitate descending into deeper areas quickly. Steep steps on a steel frame called for complete concentration during descent
Our ranger guide imparting her knowledge
In some areas the sides of the caves narrowed but layers formed by sedimentation eons ago could still be seen
Whilst conditions were thought to be very stable inside, we did see the aftermath of what happened if some pieces decide to fall
Whatever looked spectacular to the eye, didn't look impressive through the camera
Close up, light did make a difference but I could not convey an idea of scale
The colour of light did matter
When 'curtains' or 'draperies' broke off, little stalagtites would try to carry on the job of linking with the floor of the cave
A couple of reasonably lit stalagmites but still imparting no sense of scale
This blurry shot has been included just to give an idea of the size of the place and this is not the biggest cavern
People first used the 'Natural Entrance' to gain access to the cave
This cute thing was seen hiding next to a fence near the Natural Entrance
These two were doing their bit to continue their kind
He was inviting a shot before we called it a day
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