23June2008 The Texas Motor Speedway and the Cattle Drive

The Texas Motor Speedway was just off Fort Worth. There were no races in summer but we went for a tour of its facilities anyway. The place was humungous. The figures given by our guide were impressive. The land, all 1600 acres of it, was sold by Ross Perot to Bruton Smith (the billionaire NASCAR promoter and owner of Speedway Motorsports Inc). The asphalt track is a mile and a half oval. The curves at opposite ends are banked at 24 degrees. This prevents the cars from flying off the curves when going round at high speed. The walls bordering the curves are referred to as ‘saver walls’ because they have been built to absorb tremendous shock. The whole speedway with its infield is below ground level, with the removal of a huge amount of dirt during construction. This is to shelter the cars from strong gusts that frequent this part of Texas. The infield is 600 acres - good enough to hold eight football fields. The seating capacity of the grandstand is a staggering 150,000 whilst the smaller stand on the opposite side of the oval holds 35,000. Including fans in the RV parks and campgrounds on the outfield, we were told the best attendance was a mind boggling 260,000.

Security is tight. Without a credentialed ID, no one is allowed into the infield where everything required to run the races were found. The competing drivers – the aristocracy of auto racing can even hook up their personal RV’s in the infield. Naturally, a pecking order amongst the drivers determined who gets the best spot. The several ‘field’ hospitals for the drivers (and other personnel) are euphemistically known as Infield Care Centers. The infield also has its own Sunoco gas station, which dispenses high octane fuel for the vehicles in the race. By tradition (and perhaps for other good business reasons), it has got to be Sunoco and nothing else. Each competing team was given the exclusive use of a designated garage. There was also a huge workshop for tire providers Goodyear. We were shown the pit stops where the refueling and changing of tires were carried out. They must go through a lot tires as a ‘NASCAR’ must decelerate from close to 200 mph (320 kmph) to 45 mph (72 kmph) before entering the pit stop area.

Essentially, races of three different types of vehicles take place at the TMS: the ‘NASCAR’ - a modified production line Chevy; the legendary and head-turning Corvettes, and modified production line pick-up trucks. There are complicated rules governing the type of modifications allowed for racing. But, essentially, the race vehicles have to look, outwardly at least, like a model purchased from any showroom – spoilers and decals not withstanding. Chevy Monte Carlo and Chevy Impala are the most popular ‘NASCAR’ models.

The tremendous amount of space infield enables all kinds of activities to be held at the TMS when no motor race is on. Our guide was at pains to point out that there is something going on all the time during non-race days. “Oh, a few days ago, that was the site of a truck auction.” “Did you know that all the donations for Katrina victims were consolidated here before being trucked to New Orleans?” “Hey, many schools and organizations hold their special events here.”

Our guide had to radio the ‘Operations Department’ for permission to take us on the track for a couple of laps – much like pilots waiting for word from the control tower before getting onto the runway. On the track, at 50 mph (80 kmph) it felt like our van was crawling. On the second lap, we were allowed to do 75 mph (120 kmph) but it didn’t make much difference. What felt strange was going round the curves with the 24-degree bank. Perhaps if we went faster, the full benefits derived from the banking would really felt. The average speed achieved in actual NASCAR races is 160 mph (275 kmph). Team Texas conducts crash courses in sports driving. Had we joined, no doubt a few laps at a nifty speed, under supervision, would be allowed. However, the day was very hot and I didn’t relish donning a snug racing suit.

I was surprised to learn that motor sports was the second most popular professional sports where TV ratings in the US are concerned – the top being the NFL. The National Association for Stock Car Auto Racing (NASCAR) is the largest sanctioning body for stock cars races which are beamed into 150 countries. Exhibition races were held in Japan and Australia also. Fans worldwide reportedly spent over $3 billion last year on licensed product sales. NASCAR - the association - earned more than $2 billion in 2007 and this was second only to Formula One. So, no space is deemed too insignificant to have a logo stenciled on for advertising. Private boxes, each accommodating 68 guests, extended along the length of the grandstand. Sponsors pay 100,000 dollars per year for the privilege of entertaining their guests during major events held through the racing season. There being no shortage of companies with deep pockets, I suppose big sponsors and companies with connections end up getting the boxes closest to the checkered flag.

What about the devoted fan not in a corporate hierarchy? Well, he can join a variety of clubs which will give him access to vantage points on the grandstand and allow him to visit the Pitstop before the races.

After leaving TMS, we went for a quick buffalo burger before doing a couple of museums quickly. We had to catch the 4pm cattle drive in the Stockyard District. This was a reenactment of a cattle drive when cowboys drove herds to the markets in the north. We were a bit disappointed by the 'tame' affair but seeing the longhorns was a compensation

At day’s end, totally exhausted by the heat, we settled for instant noodles in our motel room and had asparagus from Walmart to boot! How uncouth could we get?

Distance traveled 64.6 miles



Birdseye view of the Texas Motor Speedway lifted from a wall poster.




The Texas Motor Speedway racing calendar - the next one will be on Oct30th. There are many activities on non-race days when the weather was not so hot - like Beretta Celebrity Clay Shootings, Speedway Runs (this is a foot race along the track at 8.30am), Infield motor races of several car divisions different from NASCARs etc.


With so many spaces to fill, it was evident they were doing a splendid job. How to be a race fan? You gotta have your favorites driver's cap to keep out the rays and have a good visual on the action, or get the 'Throttle Up' cap shown. Show your dedication to your favorite driver by having a sponsor's jacket. If you don't have a Pit Pass giving pre-race access, how can you call yourself a real race fan?!! How will you get close enough to obtain an autograph from your favorite driver? The Season Pass allows you to buy a Pit Pass. For yet more privileges, be a Victory Lane Club member as well. What about getting into the Pit Stop Pavilion at the Village of Champions? How about a Lifetime Plus Preferred Seat Licence - this will guarantee you get the same seat every race - with individual seat backs and armrests as well!! The selling goes on and some of the tops drivers must enjoy cult status, I suspect.


The three cars in the lake signify what this place was all about: a Chevy Impala, a Corvette and a Chevy pick up truck.


Approaching the main building behind the grandstand - the Lone Star Tower. This ten-storey building had offices and luxury condominiums.


You got to get one of these condos if all your customers are race fans.


Residents were allowed to use the Club House on the infield where they, no doubt, got to hobnob with the celebrity drivers. Notice the irregular shape of the swimming pool? It's like the State of Texas. It only looked small because everything else was so big.


The view from the Speedway Club end of the grandstand.


Going into the Infield through a series of underpasses. (Sorry, couldn't get that muddy blotch off the windscreen of the van)


The Infield Track for service cars and for certain types of races.


The Jerr-dan tow trucks


Restricted entry on race days - pass required. Hmmm, notice some of these rules?


In field care


Good Year Eagle - there must be lots tires inside


The scoring tower had different colored lights to indicate how many laps still to go in the race AND how many had already been run. This unique lap counter is a first for Texas Motor Speedway.



It's got to be SUNOCO - Supreme 112 leaded



Entrance to the infield garage area


With typical Texas panache, a boastful sign at the entrance to Garage Row; this huge infield area was lined with garages, with at least one per competing car
Wonder what the Formula One boys had to say about that signage?!


View of the grandstand from infield.


Another view of the pitstop area.


Steeply banked curve of the track with extra shock absorbent retainers.


Billboards everywhere.


View of the Speedway Club building.


Pit stop - I think there were 45 of them for NASCAR races.


Victory Lane - sponsored by Time Warner Cable


Could there be another winner?


Wall of Champions


Hook ups for race drivers' RV's


A bigger field hospital for the other people


Gate 5 leading to elevators up to the loftier levels of the grandstand.


View of track from the corporate boxes in the grandstand.


Bruton Smith - he owned a couple of other tracks beside TMS.


The stand for the dirt track next to the main speedway. Most drivers have to winning races on smaller tracks like these before moving on to big times.



The Infield straight with the pitstops on the right. This stretched was sometimes used for races other than NASCARS


The pitstops


A novelty for those from places where handguns are not easily available


A reenactment for those who haven't seen longhorns before; imagine a herd thundering in your direction!



This was the headquarters of one of the greatest cattle markets of the world. Established in the late 1800's, its heyday lasted the first five decades of the 20th century. By the mid 1930's, Texas was the biggest producing State for sheep and cattle. Fortworth was also the largest horse and mule market during World War I when these animals were purchased and shipped to armies in Europe. By the time World War II came around, Fortworth handled record numbers of sheep and hogs as well.
To this day, the building still houses the offices of a few stockyard companies and the Lifestock Commission; the Stockyards Museum was also located inside.


Inside the Stockyards Museum.



The real life story of Cynthia Ann Parker made much better reading than a novel. In 1836, the Indians that raided the Parker family fort made off with the eight year old. She was then raised amongst the Commanches and married one of their chiefs with whom she had two sons and a daughter. Decades later, the cavalry unwittingly captured Cynthia Parker and her daughter in an attack on the tribe's camp. She was returned to her white relatives when it was discovered she was white. Desperate to return to the Indian side of her famiy, she died in 1870, presumably from a broken heart. She was never to learn that one of her sons became the famous Cammanche warrior Quanah Parker who would ultimately return her body for burial next to her Indian family years later.


Quanah Parker - the last War Chief of the Commanches who died in 1911. He was the son of the legendary Indian captive Cynthia Ann Parker. During the twilight years of his tribe's control over the Texas plains, he was the most feared and revered warrior. But by 1874, all the buffalo, on which the Commanche's livelihood depended, had been killed. He and his people were forced to live on a reservation in Oklahoma. Whilst he taught his people many of the white man's ways so that they could survive, he still managed to embrace the culture of his ancestors (keeping his 7 wives, his long braid,and sleeping in a "Tipi" rather than a house). He was much respected by President Theodore Roosevelt whom he went wolf hunting with.



Just a tiny sampling of the barbed wires on display - they called it the Devil's Rope in one of the museums on the original Route 66


The points of the horns were more than 6 feet apart


The armadillo - another symbol of Texas


The Texas Cowboy Hall of Fame: 70 Texas men and women, according to its pamphlet, were honored for excellence in the sport of rodeo, cutting, ranching and sports medicine. It went on to say that the life of a Rodeo Cowboy is an extension of the hard-working, ranching cowboy's competitive nature and pioneering spirit. On show was the world's largest lifestyle wagon collection. Also showcased was the Chisholm Trail Collection which recalled the famous cattle-drive route of the Old West and its connection to the city of Fort Worth. Then there was an exhibition of boots which were such an integral life of the Cowboy.


Chow time around the chuckwagon at the end of a hard day. Charles Goodnight, the biggest rancher in Palo Duro Canyon, was thought to be the inventor of the chuck wagon. He had army surplus wagons fitted out with a foodbox and a work table. These wagons were also the first 'trucks' in that they carried any supplies that may be required on a cattle drive or fence building trip - tools and barbwire, bedrolls and clothes, guns and ammunitions, 'medicinal whiskey' plus simple instruments and utensils for a rudimentary field hospital.


Women were tough also in the days of the cowboys...



...though they didn't necessarily looked tough


The start of the 'cattle drive'



Those horns were really fascinating. It reminded me of their shaggy haired cousins - the 'mou niu' (hairy cow) we saw on our way to Tibet a couple of years ago.


Something surreal about them, they were there right in front of me and yet the look they had was so far away - were they looking forward to their next lifes as something else?



Here's another with a different pattern.


Can't help slipping this last one in.


OK, this was not the young lean cowboy of the movies but this was just to give an idea of what a cattle drive was like.


This was supposed to be the first man who wrestled a bull to the ground. Bill Pickett was an expert at bull dogging, later known as steer wrestling. He bit the bull on the lip to gain submission after twisting the bull's head by hanging on to its horns.



Plaques on the back wall to the right:
"Friends don't let friends drive ugly women home"
"Save a horse, ride a cowboy"


The butcher's wagon in days of yore. Haberdashers, carpet cleaners, launderers and other service providers came with wagons specially converted for their respective trades.


There was a collection of utensils which showed how people lived back in the days of the cowboys.